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Between guests · 4 September 2026

From Almaty to Paddington: how I learned to massage

I learned massage on a Sunday from a grandmother who read backs from the doorway. The course, two London spas and a room of my own in W2 came later.

The first back I ever worked on belonged to my mother, and I was fourteen. She had come home from a shift with her shoulders somewhere up around her ears, and my grandmother — who did this for everyone in the building, hard, without being asked — was away. So I did what I had watched her do for years: found the ridge of muscle beside the spine, leaned into it with the heel of my hand, and stayed there until my mother stopped talking.

That is the whole method, really. Everything since has been detail.

Where I come from

In Almaty, massage is not something you book. It is something that happens on a Sunday, on the living-room floor, to whichever relative looks like they need it. There is no oil, no music and no towel etiquette; there is a grandmother who can see from the doorway that you have been carrying your shoulders wrong, and who will not let you leave until she has fixed it.

I grew up inside that. By sixteen I was doing it for neighbours; by twenty I was doing it for money, badly at first and then less badly. The formal training came afterwards — classical Swedish technique, anatomy that finally explained what my hands had been finding for years, a certificate with a stamp on it. But the instinct came first, and it is still the thing I trust most: read the body before you touch it, and stay where it hurts until it lets go.

London, twice

I came to London and did what most therapists do: I joined a spa. Then another. Both were beautiful rooms with terrible arithmetic — eight guests a day, fifty-minute hours, a routine you could set a watch by. I learned deep tissue properly there, and remedial work, and how to blend oils. I also learned what it feels like to give the sixth massage of a day, and what it feels like to a guest.

I wrote about that in another note. The short version is that I left to do it the other way round.

One room in W2

The room is a few minutes from Paddington station, on the quiet side of a residential building near Praed Street. There is a proper table, not a folding one. There is a shower, fresh linen for every guest, warm oil, low light and a door that closes. There is no reception, because there is no one to receive you but me.

I see four guests a day, an hour and a half apart, and I do four things: Swedish, deep tissue, aromatherapy and full body. I do them slowly. If you want a menu of forty treatments with names in Sanskrit, there are places for that; this is not one of them.

What I brought with me

The grandmother’s directness, mostly. I will tell you if you do not need to come back for a month. I will tell you if what you have is a physio’s job, not mine. I will lean into a knot for a full minute if that is what it takes, and I will stop the second you say “less”, without asking why.

And the Sunday-floor feeling — that a massage is one of the few hours in a week when someone is paying complete attention to your body and wants nothing from it. I take that seriously. It is why the oil is warm before you arrive, why I do not talk unless you want to, and why guests who come for their back tend to mention, on the way out, that they felt looked after.

I speak English, Russian and Kazakh. If it is easier to explain what hurts in one of the other two, do.

Mentioned in this note

Swedish Massage

Long effleurage strokes, warm oil, a rhythm that drops your heart rate within ten minutes. Most studios rush it in fifty. Here it is a full hour, and the last fifteen minutes are the ones that actually matter.

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